Beginner Motorcycle Gear
2003-12-04 03:47 amEver since I was a little kid, I've wanted to learn how to ride a motorcycle. However, when I was still living at home, my Mom wouldn't have it, and when I got older, I was frightened by the 16X higher fatality rate (per mile traveled) of motorcycle riders compared to auto drivers. Most of those increased fatalities are due to a) not wearing a helmet b) alcohol intoxication c) speeding. I don't drink, and I always plan to wear a helmet. Speeding may be a problem (I sometimes speed in the car).
However, I think the sheer fun of riding outweighs the risk. The biggest obstacle for me right now is that I live in an apartment complex, and don't have a covered garage to store the bike. The risk of theft is therefore quite high. I plan to mitigate the risk by buying an inexpensive bike which may make it less likely to be stolen, as well as a decent bike lock.
Here's what I estimate the costs to be:
Honda Rebel 250 -- $1500
Aerostitch Roadcrafter two piece riding suit -- $750
Shoei RF-800 helmet -- $270
Cruiserboots Classic motorcycle boots-- $230
Abus Steel-O-Flex 1000 lock/cable -- $150
MSF riding course -- $110
insurance (annual) -- $400
repairs (annual) -- $200
Draggin Jeans -- $80
Draggin Shirt -- $80
Joe Rocket V2 Glove -- $60
black silk undershirt -- $35
Bikemaster Covermax Bike cover -- $50
Abus WA-50 floor anchor - $50
motorcyle registration -- $20
gasoline -- ? (depends on how much I ride)
Bike: $1500.00
Gear and ancillary expenses: ~$2500.00
Suggestions and comments are welcome.
However, I think the sheer fun of riding outweighs the risk. The biggest obstacle for me right now is that I live in an apartment complex, and don't have a covered garage to store the bike. The risk of theft is therefore quite high. I plan to mitigate the risk by buying an inexpensive bike which may make it less likely to be stolen, as well as a decent bike lock.
Here's what I estimate the costs to be:
Honda Rebel 250 -- $1500
Aerostitch Roadcrafter two piece riding suit -- $750
Shoei RF-800 helmet -- $270
Cruiserboots Classic motorcycle boots-- $230
Abus Steel-O-Flex 1000 lock/cable -- $150
MSF riding course -- $110
insurance (annual) -- $400
repairs (annual) -- $200
Draggin Jeans -- $80
Draggin Shirt -- $80
Joe Rocket V2 Glove -- $60
black silk undershirt -- $35
Bikemaster Covermax Bike cover -- $50
Abus WA-50 floor anchor - $50
motorcyle registration -- $20
gasoline -- ? (depends on how much I ride)
Bike: $1500.00
Gear and ancillary expenses: ~$2500.00
Suggestions and comments are welcome.
Suggestion...
Date: 2003-12-04 03:16 am (UTC)Some of these expenses are a bit... over the top. The boots, for instance. You could very well go to the surplus store (if you have one around) and pick up a pair of boots for half of that. You also don't truly need a riding suit. You could either get one used, or go with the traditional $100 leather biker jacket strategy. I know these things look cool, but you may not need to go to much of these expenses. Helmets do not perform miracles; in fact, in some cases, you are more likely to break your neck because you had a helmet on, and they even say right there on most of the helmets "does not protect over 5 mph". 5 or 15. I can't remember. Anyway, in knowing that, you may not need that particular helmet. Anything with more than half coverage would be suitable.
I don't know what your living situation is, but if you're in a big city you would certainly do well to keep your bike in a storage lot and drive out there to ride your bike. That can cut down on the likelihood of getting crushed.
And do make friends with the local bike mechanic, unless you're going to pick up some zen through the art of motorcylce maintenance. ;)
Good luck, and enjoy!
Re: Suggestion...
The "does not protect" clause on the helmet refers to direct impact speed of the helmet with a hard object, not the speed of the motorcycle (or, more specifically, the rider). If you have a full-face helmet and you have a high-speed accident, you will be lovin' that helmet for the rest of your life — it just saved your face from being stripped off your skull by high-speed road rash. The bouncing around might have caused brain damage, too. Frankly, I'd rather have a broken neck (and die quickly) from the helmet than spend the rest of my life looking like Quasimodo and unable to perform simple arithmetic functions.
If you're worried about motorcycle theft, I might recommend getting a used bike (particularly one that looks used). Generally, people are less likely to steal motorcycles than cars, because vehicle thieves and their customers are often unable to ride the damned things anyway. If they're going to steal it, though, having a new, relatively inexpensive bike is probably a more tasty target than an older, not as inexpensive bike would be. Getting a small one for the first bike, though, is a good plan. You don't want to start out with an 1100.
Whatever you do, don't make your first motorcycle something that you will be inconsolable over having dropped. As I've been told many times by riders more experienced than I, it's not a question of if you'll drop your bike, but when you'll drop it. Apparently, it usually happens when you're doing something stupid-simple, like starting from a stop, and generally in front of the largest, most embarrassing crowd you could manage to drop it in front of, probably with your girlfriend watching. She'll then get on some other guy's bike.
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From:Oh yeah, absolutely!
Date: 2003-12-04 06:44 am (UTC)With the 550, it was nice to have the power of getting out of tight situations when I needed to, also.
Ahhh, I haven't had a bike in too many years and I've been craving one. But frankly, Dallas drivers scare me, so I refuse to get one while I'm here. One day soon.....
Re: Oh yeah, absolutely!
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Date: 2003-12-04 09:05 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2003-12-04 05:32 am (UTC)But beware of fraud for items over or around $1,000. Check feedback ratings and don't buy from anyone outside the US or possibly Canada. If anyone suggests an escrow service other than escrow.com, split. If you understand how the fraudsters work and what to avoid, you can get a STEAL on Ebay, new OR used. If in doubt there is a community message board where you can get a pretty good idea if you're being scammed. But - its easy to avoid.
Ebay rocks my world.
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Date: 2003-12-04 10:13 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2003-12-04 08:02 am (UTC)If you are riding on a cruiser, there's no need for a riding suit. You'll look rediculous, and it's expensive. Black silk undershirt, unnecessary. The boots, eh.
All you need is a pair of jeans, a white t-shirt, a leather jacket, a pair of sunglasses. And yes, you should wear boots, but they don't have to be riding boots. Any old pair of work boots will do.
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Date: 2003-12-04 09:07 am (UTC)Get riding boots, particularly if you've got a heavy bike (as cruisers tend to be).
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Date: 2003-12-04 10:08 am (UTC)The silk shirt is to protect my skin from the kevlar/synthetic material of the Draggin shirt. I tend to have a strong itch reaction to synthetic fibers, and something about my body chemistry also causes such materials to stink quickly. Silk is lightweight, and will keep me warm better than cotton if I should get caught in the rain.
The riding suit may not be necessary, I agree. However, from what I've read most accidents happen to riders in their first 5 months of riding, within a short distance from home, and at relatively low speeds (~30 mph on average). Also, accidents in which the rider falls and travels some distance with the bike on top of the leg seem to be common. The Aerostitch suit appears to be lightweight, reflective, and will fit over my clothes. It also seems score highly in the reviews I've read.
But perhaps a leather jacket and draggin jeans would be sufficient.
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Date: 2003-12-04 10:29 am (UTC)anyway, i've been riding almost as long as i've been able to walk, and i have a couple of suggestions that you might find valuable.
bike - 250cc rebels are almost toy category... if you are just puttering around a college campus or only using it to run back and forth for little errands on quiet suburban streets, it would be fine. but you really do need at least 500cc's to safely navigate busy streets... and it's the lower limit for safely travelling highways. i saw the bike recommendations, and i'd like to add a couple ideas. an older Honda Nighthawk 650 or 700s would be perfect... they were my first couple of bikes when i was learning, and they aren't intimidating at all. a more modern option would be the Suzuki SV650 (and my personal recommendation). el cheapo priced bikes like the suzuki ex 500 are an option, but something like a nighthawk or the sv650 will keep you happier longer.
helmet - this is NOT something to skimp on. try out the higher end Arai's and Shoei's. and spend just as much as you possibly can afford, and a little bit more. it's your head, after all. besides better safety and construction, the higher end helmets like the Arai signet or quantum or Shoei's top of the lines are lighter, quieter, and have better venting - all of which adds up to less rider fatigue and a more enjoyable ride.
gear - you mentioned needing stuff between you and your gear. go to a ski shop and buy 'silks'. comfortable, inexpensive, and will go a long way to add to a comfortable ride.
after a helmet, the most important part of gear is the gloves and boots (they are what hits the ground first in a crash and breaks the fall) so don't cheap out on those, regardless of what other people here tell you. look at Held for gloves, and Frey Daytona for boots.
leathers are what i prefer for a riding suit, other opinions vary. just so that you are completely covered with something that will last long enough in a crash to keep you from getting that road rash should be fine... armour and a back protector is a good idea, imho. but you make up your own mind on that.
good luck, and welcome to the sport!
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Date: 2003-12-04 10:53 am (UTC)Most motorcycle accidents are single-vehicle accidents, therefore it's frequently due to the stupidity of the rider. Hint: don't be stupid.
I have no idea how tall you are, but make sure you buy a bike that you can sit on and have your feet flat on the ground. If you're on tippy-toe you're much more likely to drop your bike (as I learned riding someone's bike who was about four inches taller than me -- I'm 5'6").
Helmet: might seem simple, but make sure it fits. Different companies make different shapes and sizes of helmets. For example, Arais don't work on my head at all. Make sure it's DOT and Snell rated.
Make sure the jacket you choose fits tightly at the wrists. Otherwise you'll have a lot of whipping fabric.
Mechanically speaking, motorcycles (esp older ones) tend to be less complicated than cars. Depending on how much of a gearhead you are, you might want to learn a few basic things about your bike, like how to change your oil.
Though they'll tell you this in your MSF class, don't ever ride when you're tired.
Oh, and don't know if it bothers you, but Rebels are the bikes favored by lesbians. I found this out when I bought one several years ago, and found it rather humorous that people assumed I was a dyke because of what I rode.
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Date: 2003-12-04 08:29 pm (UTC)Oh, and don't know if it bothers you, but Rebels are the bikes favored by lesbians. I found this out when I bought one several years ago, and found it rather humorous that people assumed I was a dyke because of what I rode.
Heh. I like lesbians. That said, I'm 5'11" 180 lb guy, so I don't think misidentification will be a problem.
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Date: 2003-12-04 07:31 pm (UTC)Oh yeah: watch out for guys in their mid-life crisis in sports cars; much more deadly than any pack of old farts in Lincolns or Soccer Moms.
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